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Olympic marmot
The head and body of the olympic marmot generally have a length
between 46-53 cm and the tail is 18-25 cm long. The legs are
9.4-11.2 cm in length. The olympic marmot has a stocky appearance,
with large shoulders and a wide head. Large, rounded claws are used for digging. The hair is brown
with white intermixed for much of the year, but changes to a
yellowish color in the summer due to sun bleaching.
Reproduction
Male olympic marmots have a harem of two females. Due to harsh
environmental conditions, the estrus cycle occurs every two years in
order to allow females to recuperate from raising a litter. The
estrus cycles of the two females in the harem are usually alternated
so that there is only female reproducing each year. Mating occurs
about two weeks after hibernation ends. Gestation lasts 30-32 days and young are born in a burrow
padded with grass. The litter size is usually 4-5 offspring. The
offspring are sexually mature at the age of three.
Behavior
Olympic marmots are highly social and may live in groups of over a
dozen animals. These groups usually include an adult male, two adult
females, yearling offspring, and newborn offspring. Gregarious bonds
are made between individuals in a family. Olympic marmots identify
each other by touching noses and smelling of cheeks. This behavior,
along with grooming, establishes the standing of each individual in
the family. Little contact occurs with a neighboring group, though a
border may be shared. Olympic marmots are diurnal and terrestrial
animals. During the morning and afternoon on summer days, they feed
and spend time sunbathing on rocks. In the evening, they return to
their burrows. Well used trails connect their burrows. A mother and
her offspring generally live in their own burrow. Adult males
usually inhabit a burrow with one or two females. During
hibernation, which lasts 3-9 months, all marmots in the group stay
in the same burrow.
Food Habits
Olympic marmots eat herbs, grasses, and flowers. They prefer plants
that are soft and easy to digest. They may also eat fruits, legumes,
and insects. After coming out of hibernation, roots are the only
source of food until vegetation growth begins.
In captivity they should be offered a complete diet of rodent lab blocks
(may need to be soaked), and rat or mouse
mix, with bits of fruit or veggies regularly. Cheerios or wheat
bread are great treats, in small quantities. Do NOT feed chocolate,
fried foods, salted foods, candy or junk food! They may enjoy
crickets and mealworms if they are captive bred, never feed wild
insects as they may carry parasites. Vitamins, like Nutri-Cal are a
good addition to their diet, and added calcium during nursing and
growth due to demands on their systems at those times, but take care
not to overdo it. Water bottles should be used to proved constant,
clean water. Ceramic or stoneware food dishes work well for keeping
seeds or fresh foods off the floor.
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